Fun Live Oak Tree Facts

Fun Live Oak Tree Facts

The south comes to mind when one thinks about live oak trees. These classically beautiful trees with Spanish moss draped along streets with historic antebellum homes are unforgettable. Live oaks grow across the Southeastern United States.

They are found on the east coast from southeastern Virginia to Florida and west to southern and central Texas. The live oak tree grows predominantly in sandy soils of low coastal areas but it also grows in dry sandy or moist rich woods. It has a resistance to salty soil and salt spray from the ocean and does well on barrier islands.

Live oak is monoecious. This means that they have separate male and female reproductive units on the same plant. They produce flowers every spring from March through May and the acorns mature in September and fall off by December. Live oak acorns are long, dark brown to black and tapered. They are sweet and very popular with birds, squirrels and other animals. If the acorns fall on moist, warm ground, they will germinate soon after falling.

Live oaks do not get very tall, rarely above 50 feet but the crown or canopy of the tree can have a span of 150 feet. It is a very popular shade tree because of this. The wood of the live oak is very hard and strong and was used years ago for shipbuilding among other various wood making ventures. The wood is not used as widely today as it used to be because it is predominantly a shade and ornamental tree.

Live oaks have a tendency to grow in large, dense groups with interconnected roots systems, this is why you see them sprawling so closely to each other down many small town main streets across the south.

If you are ever in the south near historic Charleston South Carolina, you will be surrounded by history. Once you have soaked up the architectural beauty and rich history of the city, head to nearby John’s Island to see the oldest living thing east of the Rockies. Known as the Angel Oak, the live oak tree that has its own park is estimated to be 1,500 years old, pre-dating Columbus by 1,000 years!

Tucked into a wooded area the Angel Oak tree will simply astound you. Its quiet majesty shades the tiny park it dominates; it will be quite a while before you forget the 160-foot span of Angel Oak’s massive branches. Her circumference is a whopping 25 feet, and she covers 17,000 square feet of ground.

For more facts about the history of Live oaks and general informative information stayed tuned in. For now, I will say see you later, I have a picnic lunch date under a grand, old, shady friend; a live oak tree.

5 Tips For Live Oak Tree Care

5 Tips For Live Oak Tree Care

Oak trees are an iconic and significant symbol throughout history. They represent strength and timelessness. These trees are some of the most magnificent found here on earth. There are even over three hundred varieties of these majestic forest giants throughout the world. Oaks like all living things need to be taken care of. They need five key helpers to keep them thriving day in and day out.

First is fertilizing. In natural or undisturbed conditions, a mature oak tree does not need to be fertilized; however, in a case where planting, up rooting, or nearby ground disturbance has occurred, it is important to administer some fertilizer to the base of the tree. This will help the oak get more comfortable with its new surroundings quicker.

Fertilizer is also necessary for unhealthy trees that may require extra nutrients to survive. Fertilizing an oak will balance the phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen nutrients in which are needed to grow greener richer foliage. Ensuring your tree with enough nutrients to help with the foliage growth will increase the capacity to capture sunlight and produce food and energy.

Soil cover is the second helper to an oak trees survival. In order to avoid erosion or root damage, it is important to maintain a few inches of soil cover over the roots of the tree. This soil cover should extend about six foot from the tree trunk and should not cover the trunk. You do not want the roots to become girdled and wrap around the trunk.

Irrigation is our third helper. Generally, mature oak trees do not require much irrigation, and supplemental watering can create a ripe environment for disease causing pathogens. However, if the tree has been uprooted or transplanted, or even just a little guy, some extra precautions might be good and will help your live oaks thrive.

Pruning is our fourth helping task. While mature oaks do not require any pruning all trees require the occasional dead branch or twigs cleaned off. It is very important to prune younger less mature oaks so that their branches can grow to be strong and the canopies/ foliage can spread to form a grander, wider range of shade. Pruning of the oak tree should really only be done during the dryer seasonal months of the year such as June and July. In addition, do not over prune.

Last but certainly not least is love. Loving your oak tree is the biggest and best help care tip I can give. Oak trees like most need TLC, tender loving care. They will thrive best when cared for properly.

In conclusion, when thinking of adding or simply trying to revitalize an oak, please consider these five simple helpful tips. Enjoy your oaks, and with over 300 varieties there’s bound to be one out there just for you. Me personally, I love the Southern Live Oak tree, and I know my Live Oak tree loves me back.

Live Oak Tree Losing Leaves

Live Oak Tree Losing Leaves

“Should I prune my trees? and is there a right time to do so?” are questions that are often asked. This is always an important and highly relevant question when dealing with the topic of tree care – for your yard and garden – if your house or town house or villa.

When considering the opportunity, a pruning should take into account several factors. The timing is not always correct when it is easier and more convenient for the artist or technical landscape.

The first factor to consider is that each pruning cut on a branch of life is a direct insult and injury to the plant is a tree, shrub or bush. These wounds take away plant energy because the tree is repairing itself and containing decay at the same time. Make a global rule to prune only the minimum amount necessary. The experience of thousands of landscapers has shown that excessive pruning will result in permanent damage to the plant or tree trimmed. Just as in the future increase frequency of corrective pruning and landscaping will most likely be necessary and required. These repairs later could not otherwise have been necessary.

The second factor to consider is the actual tree species. It is well known that different trees have different growth patterns that affect the time of year that success can prune the tree. Trees like maple, willow and birch should not be pruned later this year – in the winter season and also in the early spring seasons. Pruning of willow, maple and birch trees during that time will likely lose large amounts of liquid sap, which if not slightly weaken the trees, leave a sticky mess in your yard. The trees tend to lose the sap can be best be pruned when they are in their completely leaves later in the spring or summer.

The third factor to consider is the presence of insect pests and diseases. Some trees may be more susceptible to these problems if they are injured by pruning. Therefore, species such as elm and oak must be pruned only in latency, which is typically after the leaves fall and mild winter. In many jurisdictions, there are prohibitions on pruning elm and oak trees during their growing seasons.

In general, most flowering trees can be pruned right after the flowers to allow new buds set. The pruning of these trees may be too late in response to poor flowing next year growing season.

Research has found that with many deciduous trees, the last to wait for pruning in the winter season, the greater the amount of adventitious shoots that will develop the following year. If you prune these trees later in the season – best in the fall or late summer is that these succulent shoots are less likely to exploit in his backyard.

Firs and pines, most can be pruned in spring when they are making new growth. In general, most evergreen conifers follow this rule and should not be pruned from mid-summer to autumn weather cools.

Finally, it is important that your tools are sharp and in good condition. Cuts larger than 3/4 inch should be done with a sharp saw. If the cut is less than 1/4 inch below the preferred tool are bypass pruners.

All in all, pruning ornamentals, shrubs and plants can be done properly and at the right time of year according to plant species.